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Smash!

Posted by – 2011-01-31

Broke a carboy yesterday.  I was just finished cleaning it out and it dropped into the bathtub and smashed into a billion pieces.  It totally sucked.  I still transfered two batched and brewed an IPA, but the day was an overall downer.

Thoughts on ingredients

Posted by – 2011-01-20

It’s 1-20-11 and I’ve finally planned my first brew of the season (I don’t brew in the summer so I consider the fall/winter to be my brewing season) for this upcoming weekend.  I usually start around November, but this year has been super busy and I haven’t had time.  Also, I went a little crazy last season and ended up brewing 15 batches of beer.  I still have a few full kegs hanging around, so I am going to scale back a bit this season.  I’ve posted recipes up before, but brewing is certainly not only about recipes.  Here are a few other practices that I’ve work out.  They may not be the best way of doing things, but they are the best way I’ve found.

  • Grain:  I’ve pretty much completely stopped buying recipe kits.  I still do a lot of clones and use pre-existing recipes, but I buy the ingredients in bulk and break off what I need for each recipe.  For my base grains I buy 55 lb sacks from my local homebrew shop, The Homebrew Emporium, in Cambridge .  i just picked a sack of US 2-row for $60 last night.  I know I could get it cheaper online, but I don’t have a grain mill so I still need to use one in a store.  Besides that the guys at the Emporium absolutely rock.  They are a great resource for any brewing questions I have, are always really helpful and very nice.  They absolutely deserve to stay in business.  I buy my specialty grains from them as well.  I don’t need to mill the entire sack at once.  As I need base grain for each recipe I bring what I need from home to the store to mill.  Since I bought the sack from them they are totally cool with me doing this.
  • Hops: Hops I do buy online.  The two main sites I use are www.freshops.com and www.hopsdirect.com.  Freshops sell only whole leaf hops and are a bit more expensive, but you can get whatever quanity you want.  I am in love with hopsdirect.  The prices are insanely low.  A pound of Cascade hops is current going for $9.65.  The only issue is the smallest size you can get is a pound.  Typically I buy pellets (a pound of whole leaf hops takes up way too much space) and freeze them in airtight bags.
  • Yeast: Typically I buy yeast from my local homebrew shop, but I typically reuse a package of yeast 3 or 4 times to get maximum value.
  • Water: I use tap water that I run thru a Brita Filter.  I used to buy bottled water, but with all-grain brewing the amount of water required is too much to go bottled.
  • Problems with bulk ingredients:  Buying bulk ingredients can save you a good chunk of money, but there are issues.  The biggest issue is maintaining freshness.  By airlocking my hops and freezing them I can greatly increase their usable life.  It is not uncommon for me to use hops from the previous season.  I don’t carry grain over from season to season, but you can keep your grain fresh by storing it in a cool, dark place.  Also, cracked grain should be used within 2 weeks, but can last out to about a month.  Another issue with buying in bulk is you may very well be tying yourself into a certain type of beer for a while.  With something like US 2-row grain it’s not a big deal because you can make a ton of different types of beers with it, but a 55 lb sack of Belgian Pilsner is not nearly as versatile.  I bought a 1 lb bag of Columbus hops last season.  At 14% alpha acid it is a slow grind getting thru the whole bag.

Yet to be named English Barleywine

Posted by – 2011-01-20

  • Target OG: 1.091
  • Target FG:1.023
  • Target ABV: 10%
  • Target IBU: 98
  • Brewed: 01-10-09

 

  • 10 lb Maris Otter
  • 1 lb Crystal 20L
  • ½ lb Caramunich
  • 7 lb Light dry extract
  • Mashed at 157 F for 90 minutes.  Raised the temp to 170 and mashed out.  Boiled for 90 minutes.

 

  • 5 oz Kent Golding @ 90 min (82 IBU)
  • 1 oz Kent Golding @ 45 min (16 IBU)
  • 1-1/2 oz Fuggles & Irish Moss @ 15 min
  • 1 oz Fuggle @ 5 min

 

  • Pitched with a starter of Wyeast 1099 Whitbread Ale (1st generation yeast).  I set up a blow-off tool, and wow did I need it.  The yeast was very contently chugging away the next day.
  • 01-18-09: Racked to the secondary and dryhopped with 2 oz of Fuggles. 1.030 gravity.
  • 01-31-09: added a second dose of Whitbread yeast slurry from another batch of beer.
  • 02-23-09: Yeast is still slowly chugging along.  The air from the airlock smells very hot, hopefully this will fade. 1.026 gravity.
  • 03-28-09: Hot smell has faded.  The beer was a nice warming taste to it. 1.020 gravity.
  • 04-11-09: Bottled with ¾ cup priming sugar.  1.020 final gravity.

 

  • OG: 1.100
  • FG: 1.020
  • ABV: 10%

 

  • Tastings:
  • 06-03-09: Not too overboard with malt or hops, the beer could actually handle a bit more of either.
  •  09-15-09: Too malty.  I would like it to be dryer and with a bit more bitterness.
  • 01-14-11: Just over 2 years since this was brewed and it really found its groove.  Could still use more bitterness for my taste, but for the style (English Barleywine) it’s pretty spot-on.  Malt and hops really compliment each other.

 

  • Results: Over the aging process this beer really changed.  It started a bit low key, then the maltiness took over (I don’t really like malty beers, so I was unhappy at this point) and ended up being a pretty solid, well rounded beer.I learned an important lesson.  When it comes to beer, especially big beers, patience really is huge and will pay you back.  I know it is cliche to say ‘your beer is ready to drink when you pop open the last one’, but in the case of big beers it really is true.

 

  • Comments:  For my barleywines I like to minimize the amount of specialty grains and use a higher quality base grain like Maris Otter or ESB for 25% to 50% of the grain bill.  With a barleywine you have such a large amount of grain and hops that you can easily overcomplicate a recipe by adding a bunch of specialty grains.

Hold the Lemon Hefe – Hefeweizen

Posted by – 2010-02-13

  • A Hefeweizen made for the man who likes some citrus is his beer but doesn’t want a wedge of lemon floating in his pint glass.
  • target OG: 1.047
  • target FG: 1.012
  • target ABV: 4.5%
  • brewed: 02-15-09
  • 5.5 lb wheat
  • 5.5lb german pilsner
  • Tried to protein rest at 122 F but my strike water must have been high because the mash settled at 137 F.  Mashed at 137 F for 30 minutes then decocted up to 154 F, mashed for another 60 minutes and mashed out with 170 F water.
  • Boiled for 90 minutes.
  • 3/4 oz Hallertauh hops 5.0% (17) for 90 min
  • 1/2 oz Perle 9.4% (10) for 15 min
  • 1/2 oz Perle 9.4% for 1 minute
  • Pitched at 80 F with Wyeast 2068 Weizenstephan Weizen.  Temp dropped to 54 F overnight and rose to 64 F the next day. Temp rose to 67 F at end of fermentation. 
  • Transfered to secondary after a week.  Simmered the flesh and juice from 2 mini watermelons and 3 stalks (1 oz each) of lemongrass at 170 F for 15 min.  Added the tea to the secondary.  Added brewers belt to fermentor.
  • Kegged after 2 weeks with 1/2 cup priming sugar.  Strained out the lemongrass and watermelon, added another 2 oz of lemongrass in the keg.  The beer smelled pretty hot at this point, didn’t think it would turn out well.
  • OG: 1.004
  • FG: 1.008
  • ABV: 4.4%
  • Results:  This ended up being a nice, refreshing summer beer.  The lemongrass was a nice touch, but couldn’t detect much of the watermelon.  This beer could actually use more lemongrass.  Next time increase by maybe 50% and drop the watermelon.

Dubbel Trubbel – Belgian Dubbel

Posted by – 2010-02-5

This recipe is the Westmalle Trappist Dubbel recipe from Beer Captured with different hops.

target OG: 1.071
target FG: 1.014
target ABV: 7.0%
brewed: 04-11-09

3 oz Chocolate malt
8 oz caramunich
5 oz biscuit
12 lb belgian pilsner

struck with about 5 gallons of 65 F water
mashed for 120 minutes at 150 F
raised temp of mash to 170 by heating up 1 gallon portions of the liquor and adding it back. Sparged out with about 4 gallons of 170 F water. The first few gallons of liquor were cycled back thru.

Boiled for 60 minutes
1/4 oz Hallertauh hops 6.2% (5 IBU) for 60 min
1/2 oz Golding 6.2% (8 IBU) for 60 min
1 oz Hallertauh 3.6% (12 IBU) for 60 min

Irish moss for 15 min
4 oz malto dextrose for 15 min
12 oz dark candi rock sugar for 15 min

Pitched onto a 2nd gen cake of Wyeast 1388 – Belgian Strong Ale
Fermantation temp started at 64 F and rose to 68 F.
Transfered to Secondary after 2 weeks, bottled with 1-1/4 cups DME after another 2 weeks.

OG: 1.064
FG: 1.010
ABV: 7.1%

Results: This beer began with a light malt flavor and ended with a nice yeast spiciness. Got a lot of good comments on this one. I think the fermentation temp is right on, but next time I’m gonna mash at a higher temp, maybe like 152-153 to try to get a better malt flavor in it.  I might up the specialty grain amounts a bit too.  And boil for 90 min.